in fiberglass tape
April 03: It is always an adventure when I apply
fiberglass tape to a chine joint. Puckers, ripples, and
runs, with dribbles and blobs thrown in for variation,
are the order of the day. Last night was no exception,
though I felt that I may someday approach this task with
fiberglass tape on curved surfaces with something an least
mocking, if not approaching, confidence. The holdout is
the vertical surface that is tape-covered. The puckers
and inadequate filling of the fiberglass weave continue
to elude my efforts.
That said, I am pleased with the
results. This afternoon I followed up with cutting out
and epoxying on the skeg. (Go here
to see several pix and detailed text about how I did the
skeg for Moby
Dink.) I used a piece of fiberglass tape
(I don't have any problems on level surfaces with the
tape) to even out the skeg joint with the bottom of the
boat and to erase the proud edge of the tape that I applied
last night. That edge was throwing off the skeg joint
by almost an eighth of an inch. I followed up with a fillet
along the skeg edges made with wood flour-thickened epoxy.
task is to turn the boat over and shape the gunwales,
thwarts, stem, and transom to final finish and to decide
what, if anything, to do to the inside joints. I may used
a bead of thickened epoxy to add some strength, since
I like this boat and hope it will serve as a spur-of-the-moment
fun thing for years to come. After these jobs are done,
I'll put the first of many coats of a 50-50 mixture of
turpentine and linseed oil on the interior.
I'll flip the boat again and sand the epoxy, touch up
the fill on the fiberglass tape, and then put on some
construction yellow Interlux Brightside paint I have left
over from painting the trim on the Harmonica.
spend so far:
Add three hours of fiberglass tape work and two hours
to install the skeg, for a total so far of 30 hours.
so far: Going into today the coast was $143.12
Add $10 for epoxy and $3 for fiberglass tape, for a total
so far of $156.12.