My Backyard Boats:

The Piccup Squared

Clamping down -- gunwales go on

    21 May 03: Call 'em gunwales or call 'em sheer clamps, but call 'em installed. The clamps went on well, and I also put stainless steel screws in the holes left by the deck screws used for installing the sides to the transoms and bulkheads. I used 3M5200 caulk to drive the screws and seal the holes. By using Elmer's glue instead of epoxy for joints, I like using more fasteners. Also, the caulk will seal the hole better than the Elmer's glue mixed with wood flour to make a putty.

    The next step is to install the external chines.

    Cost so far: Add $14.73 for glue and a 1x4x8-foot select board that is currently holding the hull in untwisted condition and later will be available for whatever, and add $15.07 for a pound of 3/4-inch boat nails and 100 1 1/4-inch stainless steel screws, for a total of $157.18.

    Time spent so far: Add four hours for the gunwales, for a total so far of 36 hours.

It only seems like overkill to use a select pine board like this. After this service, it'll be available for use, and I opted for Select grade because No. 2 pine didn't have a straight edge, which is the whole point here, at this point in the hull process. Have a pun; I have enough to go around.
Clamps hold the starboard gunewale in place while the glue sets.
Stainless steel screws bedded in 3M 5200 caulk at the corner of the stern and the side. Someone in a recent issue of WoodenBoat said that after trying several things to make driving screws easier, include the old standby of bar soap, the winner was 3M 5200. I agree. It makes the screws glide even better than soap does, and it seals with waterproof stuff, too.
Port gunwale in place and being held with clamps. The guy across the street came over to see my fleet yesterday and said he had some clamps lying around that he would give me. Can't have too many clamps. I have about 15, and I wish I had 10 more.

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