-- sticking to the plan
May 03: I
had expected to breeze through the putting of 1x1
1/2 pine boards with bevels around the edges of
the transoms and bulkheads. Four days and 16 hours
later, I was finally done with this part of the
bevel thing gives me fits sometimes, because Jim's
plans say to allow for extra for the bevels, but
I never really felt certain of how much to leave.
book, however, has a section
on bevels that clears up all this confusion for
me. I could see that my old way of cutting the bevels
threw off the lines by 1/16 of an inch, more or
less. What I did this time was to cut the bevel
with my chop saw, which is dead-accurate and has
a degree scale that I trust. I took the pine scrap
with the bevel to the 10-inch table saw, which has
a degree scale that I don't trust. The pine scrap,
butted against the raised saw blade set the proper
bevel. Then I cut a bevel piece of pine such that
the face one sees was 1 1/2 inches wide (making
the glue face a bit wider or narrower, depending
on the bevel being cut. The
pix show all this clearly.
took my time and did the best job I could, and I
was pleased with the result. I had no errors beyond
1/16 of an inch. That's acceptable for me.
A few days ago, I bought
a 1x12x12-foot Select pine board and cut all the
chines, gunwales, and skids -- eight pieces in all.
I got a good deal on what seems a lot like New Zealand
radiata pine, for about half the price I paid the
last time I bought radiata pine. It smells wonderful
and cut well, too.
I plan to put the hull together after trimming the
bevel sticks on the transoms and bulkheads. The
weather has finally cleared after about a week of
rain and cold.
spent so far: Add 16 hours for cutting
bevel sticks for the transoms and bulkheads, for
a total so far of 26 hours.
so far: Add $3.49 for a 1x4x8-foot pine
board and $39.96 for a 1x12x12-foot pine board,
for a total so far of $127.38.